Ever since I bought my first horse choosing a saddle and then making sure it fits has been like a mystery to me.  I'm not sure if anyone else has ever felt like they are the only ones that have difficulty grasping the concept of finding the right saddle for their horse but I sure do.  I'll be the first to raise my hand and say help me. 

I've tried to read books about saddle fitting but often find myself more confused then before.  I do understand the signs of a poor fitting saddle; the idea that a saddle may fit perfectly today but not in a week, and that different saddle makers use different materials in different ways to help with saddle fitting.  What I don't understand is why is it so hard to find the saddle that will fit and work well with your horse. 

Well, I finally stumbled across a website that seems to have heard my pleas for simple easy to understand explanations with pictures and diagrams.  Go figure.   I've basically scooped the hard work of the website and would like to credit them with everything to follow.  The pictures are missing and so are the diagrams.  I tried to cut and past a lot of the information so it would be easy to follow.  On their website it is a web of links and pages that lead you to more pages so I just have the basic information.  Please go to their site if you want more and the pictures and diagrams. 

The website can be found at http://www.western-saddle-guide.com/saddle-fit.html .  There are also short youtube videos that are extremely informative.  Of course you have to take it with a grain of salt because they are obviously trying to sell their saddles.  However, they start with a tree and how it should fit your horse and each video continues to teach proper sadding fit.  I'll try to put the videos at the end of the information so you won't have to go to youtube to find them. 

 

Saddle Fit:
The Secret To A Happy Horse And Rider

Proper saddle fit has become quite a hot topic. That’s a positive development since poorly fitting saddles cause problems for both horse and rider. However, the increased emphasis on proper saddle fit has caused many people to go on a quest for the “perfect” saddle for their horse.

Let us take some pressure off. There is no such thing as the perfectly fitting saddle. A horse’s conformation changes throughout its life, and even throughout the year as their exercise level and nutrition varies. Buying a saddle to precisely fit a horse at a moment in time often results in a poorly fitting saddle at a later date.

The good news is that it’s not necessary to have the “perfect” saddle for a horse to have a comfortable fit. Proper saddle fit isn't an exact science. Think of the working cowboy. Could he afford to buy a different saddle for each horse he rode? Not on cowboy wages. And yet, if his saddle caused soreness for the boss's horses, he wasn’t a working cowboy for long. He needed a high quality, well-built saddle designed for the physical type of horses he rode. That's proper saddle fit.

That’s what you need, too. With a suitable quality saddle and a variety of saddle pads, you should be able to ride many horses of the same physical type. Such a saddle should comfortably clear a horse’s withers, allow for free movement of the shoulders, be the proper length and shape for its back, and be well balanced to provide good weight distribution. That's proper saddle fit. If you ride horses of different breeds or significantly different sizes, then you'll need to invest in multiple saddles.

 
Saddle Fit: Fitting the Horse

The goal of proper saddle fit is to identify a saddle that fits both participants - the horse and the rider. But which is the most important of the two? Without question, fitting the horse. Let's look at how to match the right saddle to your horse.

Key physical characteristics affecting saddle fit:

§  Shape of the withers
Ideally, the withers of the horse are level with, or a little above, the highest point of the rump (or croup). Withers that are higher or lower than this would need special consideration when choosing a saddle.

Illustration courtesy of Superior Saddle-Fitting by Jessica Jahiel

§  Shape of the Back
A horse that has an overly narrow or, conversely, an overly flat back, can find certain saddles to be uncomfortable. A horse that’s back is “downhill,” with his rump higher than his withers, can end up with the saddle slipping forward causing soreness.

§  Length of the back
Horses with shorter than average backs can find the saddle’s skirts digging into their backs, loins, and kidneys.

§  Prominence of the shoulders
Large-shouldered horses can be constricted by an ill-fitting saddle, limiting movement and forcing the shoulders against the tree bars. Thin-shouldered horses can cause the saddle to ride forward onto the shoulder blades.

 

Review the signs of poor saddle fit and the impact of saddle defects and horsemanship skill on saddle fit.

1.       With the horse standing on level ground, place the saddle on its back at the withers, and slide it back into place. This is an important step. Some saddle fit problems aren't caused by a poorly fitting saddle, but rather by a saddle positioned poorly.
   
2.             Saddles are designed to match the horse's anatomy when in their proper position. If the saddle is positioned in front of, or behind this position, it can cause physical problems for both the horse and rider. Proper saddle position will have the saddle placed on the horse's back so that the cinch falls about four inches behind the elbow. It's very common for riders to place the saddle too far forward, causing soreness, saddle sores and constricting the horse's movement, and also putting the rider out of position. A saddle placed too far back will place the rider's weight on the horse's loins, causing discomfort and impairing movement. These problems can be misinterpreted as a saddle fit issue, when the saddle is not to blame.
   
3.       Check the clearance at the withers. You should be able to place 2 or more (no more than 4) stacked fingers between the withers and the gullet (with no saddle pad).
   
4.       Check the shoulder clearance. You should be able to easily slip your hand between the fleece lining and the horses shoulder (with a saddle pad). Ideally, you should also be able to do this with a rider in the saddle.
    
5.       Check the skirt fit. The skirt should follow the contour of the horse’s back and not extend past its loins.
   
6.       Check the balance. Step back and view your horse from the side. The flat area of the seat should be level and the fork should not be higher than the cantle. When cinched, the back of the saddle shouldn’t rock up.
    

Saddle Sores

No one likes to see saddle sores on their horse, because we know that we're responsible. Saddle sores don't happen on their own – they're caused by people.

The term "saddle sores" refers to sores on the saddle contact points of the horse. The sores can range from small lumps, to barren areas where the hair has rubbed off, to spots of white hair, to ugly open ulcers.

The sooner you discover and treat them (including the cause), the less severe they'll be.

The most common locations sores develop:

§  Withers – where the gullet of an ill-fitting saddle can rub

§  Loins – where the skirts or pad can rub

§  Under the belly and behind the elbows - where an improperly adjusted or dirty cinch can cause sores and friction burns

§  The shoulders - where a too narrow saddle will pinch

The main causes of saddle sores:

§  Ill-fitting saddles – too loose tack (friction burns) or too tight tack (pressure sores)

§  Improperly adjusted saddles – cinches too loose or too tight, saddle place too far forward or too far back

§  Dirty tack and dirty horse – dirt, debris, broken or worn tack, and bunching

§  Poor riding technique – riding off balanced puts more pressure on the contact points

 

Saddle sores are a very visual sign of poor horsemanship technique. We all owe it to our horses to take the time to ensure a proper saddle fit, to take care of our tack and to develop our riding skill.

 

The Saddle Gullet

The saddle gullet is the cutout or tunnel underneath the fork and rides over the horse's withers. The design of the fork and the angle of the bars of the saddle tree determine the width and height of the gullet.

It's important that the gullet have the right amount of clearance over the withers. If the gullet height is too short, the saddle will rub on the horse's withers. If the gullet width is too wide, the saddle will sit too low on the shoulders, and also rub on the horse's withers. Rubbed withers equals unhappy horse.

A good rule of thumb to use for gullet fit is that there should be clearance of two to four fingers-widths between the withers and the gullet.

Unfortunately there are no standards for gullet measurements within the saddle industry. You'll find different measurements among different saddle makers. One thing to keep in mind is that gullet measurements are taken on a raw saddle tree and not on a finished saddle. Once a saddle is finished, there's really no way to determine the gullet width.

Gullet widths as described by Richard L. Sherer in "Horseman's Handbook of Western saddles" are:

§  Regular quarter horse bars: 5 3/4"

§  Semi-quarter horse bars: 6"

§  Full quarter horse bars: 6 1/4"-6 1/2"

§  Extra-wide quarter horse bars: 6 3/4"-7"

§  Arabian bars: 6 1/4"-6 3/4" (has a flatter pitch than quarter horse bars)

§  Western Saddle Parts

§  To understand the western saddle, you need to understand the saddle parts that comprise the finished product. While every part has a role to play, the three most critical are the saddle tree, the seat, and the rigging. If these three are correctly designed and constructed then you'll have a solid saddle. Get one of these wrong and the saddle can never be "right."

§  Here you’ll find all of the parts and saddle terminology explained in detail. We’ll clarify why the tree, seat, and rigging are so important to determining the quality of the saddle. We’ll explain the different types of rigging and rigging positions. We’ll define the various fork shapes. We'll describe the different skirt styles. We’ll make sense of it all. Click on the part in the list below the western saddle diagram to learn more about its function and variations. Also check out the Top 10 Saddle Replacement Parts to learn which parts you really need to keep an eye on.

§ 

§  The Saddle Fork

§  The saddle fork is the front of the saddle tree. It holds the two parallel bars together and provides a base for mounting the horn. A fork is also commonly called the swells or, on English saddles, the pommel. The term “fork” came from the early practice of making this part of the saddle from the fork of a tree.

§  The fork is what gives the shape to the front of the saddle. The shape of the saddle fork is also what determines the name of the saddle tree.

§  Fork styles come in two basic varieties – slick fork (also known as an a-fork) and swell fork. The swell fork can be either full or undercut. A diagram of each style is below.

§ 

§  The fork on a slick fork saddle is generally only 8 to 10 inches wide with the sides of the fork sloping straight up to the outside of the horn. The swell fork saddle has a "swell" that is generally 11 to 14 inches wide.

Fork styles have evolved based on the different uses for saddles and also based on the preferences of the rider. Geography has also played a part. Early saddles were all of the slick-fork variety. Later on the swell-fork evolved as a more secure style for bronc riding, roping, and competition.

§  Undercut swells were popular for a while as a way to keep you in the saddle when riding young or rough horses. Sometimes they'd keep you in too well and cause a wreck. Eventually, safety concerns caused the exaggerated undercut swells to fall out of favor.

§  Over time, the swell-fork has become the most commonly used fork style for pleasure and competition saddles.

§  The slick-fork saddle, however, held on in California, Nevada, and western Montana where the buckaroo tradition remained strong. Today, the slick-fork saddle has re-emerged as a popular ranch and all-around saddle. You’ll find most custom saddle makers making slick-forks, and many manufacturers are also now including them in their product lines. The Buckaroo tradition is back in fashion. It’s cool to be a Buckaroo.

The Saddle Skirts

The saddle skirts are the large pieces of heavy leather that attach to the underside of the saddle tree bars. The purposes of the skirts are:

1.            To protect the horse from the bars

2.    To distribute the rider's weight over a wider surface area

3.    To protect the rider from the horse's sweat

 

Skirts are made out of two pieces of heavy leather and are laced together in the back. They are attached to the bars with screws and nails, and held in place with the saddle strings.

There are two main shapes of skirts - round and square. The round skirt, sometimes called a California skirt after the state where it was most popular, lessens the bulk of the saddle. The square skirt, often called a Texas skirt, is the more traditional style and provides more protection to the horse from heavy brush. Of late, round skirts have increased in popularity.

On the underside of the skirts is a sheepskin lining. The sheepskin provides a soft layer between the horse and the saddle, but more importantly, provides a friction surface to keep the saddle blanket in place. Sheepskin can be either natural or synthetic. Natural sheepskin is thicker and more durable but attracts insects and rodents who love to munch on it. Synthetic sheepskin isn't as thick, but it's less expensive and won't be eaten.

On many skirts you'll find a Dee ring towards the front for connecting a breast collar. Some skirts will also have a "wear leather," a patch of an additional layer of leather, under the rigging Dee rings to protect the skirt from heavy use.

Signs of Poor Saddle Fit

Wondering whether your saddle fits your horse? Below are 7 potential signs of a poorly fitting saddle. If you're seeing any of these signs with your horse, you should take another look at how your saddle fits.

1.            White hairs and friction rubs. A well fitting saddle will distribute the weight equally over the horse's back. An illfitting saddle can have uneven weight distribution that results in pressure points. Over time, pressure points can show up as white hairs or friction rubs in the hairs in the saddle area.

2.    Dry spots. When you take off your saddle and pad after a long ride, what you want to see is an even wet pattern across the horse's back where the saddle makes contact. While the channel down the horse's spine should be dry, there should be even wetness on all contact points. Dry spots can be a sign of pressure points.

3.    Sores, galls, scars or hard spots. In the saddle area, sores and other physical marks can be a sign of several problems: a poorly fitting saddle, a poorly adjusted saddle, or a poor quality cinch.

4.    Rolling or rocking from side to side. A saddle that rolls to the side or rocks from side to side can be either a sign of poor fit or a sign of a rider who isn't balanced in the saddle.

5.    Tipping up in back. Tipping is generally a pretty straight forward sign of a poorly fitting saddle and is usually caused by saddle tree bars with the wrong rocker and twist (angles) to fit the back of the horse.

6.    Hindered movement by the horse. Restricted horse movement is a more difficult sign to detect and usually takes a more advanced rider to notice the difference in the way a horse moves under different saddles. A saddle that restricts a horse's shoulders will often impact how freely it moves out.

7.    General crankiness under saddle. Many saddle problems are commonly misdiagnosed as behavior or attitude problems. Put yourself in your horse's place. How happy are you when you're wearing shoes that are one size too small? Behavioral signs from your horse can include:

§  Objecting to being saddled or cinched

§  Fidgeting and refusing to stand still for mounting

§  Hypersensitivity to being brushed

§  Uncooperative and cranky when being ridden

§  Difficulty being shod

§  Pinning ears, swishing tail, and tossing head under saddle

§  Bucking right after being saddled (known as cold-backed) or excessive rolling

Saddle fit isn't an exact science. It takes some savvy to determine whether or not you have a good fit. These 7 potential signs of a poor fit are a good first step in building your saddle fit savvy.

 

 

Saddle Fit: Fitting The Rider

A well-fitting saddle will not only fit your horse and be comfortable for you to ride in, it will also put you in the proper riding position. This can make a tremendous difference in your riding technique and ability to accomplish your riding goals. Ever fought with your stirrups to bring your legs under your center of gravity? Or rode “downhill” in a poorly angled seat? Or had your thighs jammed up against the fork? All of these will not only make you cranky, they’ll result in poor riding technique.

 

Review the signs of poor saddle fit and the impact of saddle defects and horsemanship skill on saddle fit.

 

Personal preference factors into rider fit quite a bit, but there are several general guidelines you can follow:

§  Seat
Seat size is a popular way to attempt to establish the size of a saddle. Seat size is published on all saddles and measures the distance from the base of the horn to the top middle edge of the cantle. It is expressed in half inch increments and ranges from 12”(youth) to 17”. Most saddle makers do not believe saddles should be made in sizes larger than 17” as it seats the rider too far back and causes discomfort for the horse.

The reality is that seat size is only one factor impacting the size of the saddle. The depth and angle of the seat, the slope and dish of the cantle, and the style and angle of the fork, all combine with the seat size to determine how much room is available in a particular seat. Unfortunately, none of these other factors are standardized or published in a saddle’s measurements. Therefore, it’s necessary to sit in each saddle to determine fit. You’ll find that there are dramatic differences among saddles within a particular seat size. As a rule of thumb, you should have approximately four inches between the front of your body and the fork. Your seat should rest on the base of the cantle, but not be pressed against the back of the cantle. Some prefer a tighter fit, some looser. In general, it's better to have a saddle a smidge too big than a smidge too small.

Visit our How To section to learn more about how to determine your correct seat size.

§  Fenders and Stirrup Leathers
Most riders will find the fenders and stirrup leathers on any given saddle to be of satisfactory length. But riders that are taller or shorter than average may find that they need nonstandard fenders. “Making do” with standard fenders can impair stirrup movement and just look tacky. An overly tall rider can find they need to drop the fender so low that the stirrup leather shows at the bottom. An overly short rider can find that they need to force the fender so high up into the seat jockey that the forward swing will be restricted.

§  Weight
Saddles can range from 20 or less pounds for a synthetic saddle to more than 60 pounds for a heavy roping saddle. While weight isn’t an issue for some riders, it’s a big issue for others. In response, most saddle manufacturers now include lighter weight saddles in their product lines. There are trade-offs, however, to eliminating the weight. For instance, most lighter weight saddles won’t take the wear and tear of a traditional saddle. Make sure you’re aware of the particular trade-offs for the saddle you’re considering.

 

How To Determine Correct Stirrup Length

While there are some guidelines, stirrup length ends up being mainly a matter of personal preference. Some folks like to ride with shorter stirrups, some folks with longer ones.

The activity you're involved in can also impact stirrup length. Heading out for an all day trail ride and you'll probably want the comfort of stirrups on the longer side. Saddling up to train a young horse and you'll probably want the security and feel of shorter stirrups.

There are several good techniques for estimating a starting point for your stirrup length. One method is done from the ground and two are done from the saddle. Many riders will find these techniques will give them the right length. Others will need to adjust the length further to fit their own personal preferences.

 

The Impact of Horsemanship Skill on Saddle Fit

Saddle fit isn't only about your horse and your saddle. It's also about you. The better your horsemanship skills – balance, moving in synch with your horse, body control, communication of cues, feel, softness, - the better you'll find your saddle fit to be. Conversely, the less advanced your horsemanship skill, the more you'll find yourself struggling with saddle fit problems. This is often a difficult concept for the more novice rider to understand . . . and accept.

Take some time to observe skilled horsemen/women saddle, mount, and ride. Notice how they use their body control and feel, rather than the saddle, to balance themselves. The rider moves with the horse and so the saddle remains centered. The cinch/girth doesn't need to be tightened to within an inch of the horse's life to keep the saddle from shifting to one side. The rider sits with their shoulders, hips, and heels aligned, a balanced riding position. All of this results in a lot less wear and tear on the horse.

While it may be hard to hear that poor saddle fit can be caused by an out-of-balance rider, the solution is within your grasp. You'll be amazed to see how much improving your horsemanship skill will improve your saddle fit.

The Impact of Structural Defects on Saddle Fit

When we talk about saddle fit, we're usually referring to whether a particular type and size (i.e. gullet height and width) of saddle fits the dimensions of a particular horse. But some saddles will cause problems for any horse, regardless of their conformation. These are saddles with structural defects.

Structural defects can be categorized as either unsoundness or asymmetry. Saddles with either of these defects are likely to cause physical pain and often saddles sores for both horse and rider and should not be used.

 

Saddle Soundness
Soundness problems can be caused by either poor design or poor saddle care. The most common example is a cracked or broken saddle tree. While this is most often seen in older saddles that have been abused, it can also be found in low quality new saddles. You should always test the tree before purchasing any saddle, new or used.

To test, set the saddle on the fork, nose down. Press down hard on the cantle and look for bending which is an indication of a broken or cracked tree. A broken or cracked saddle tree is compromised and should not be repaired. It will always be unstable.

Saddle Symmetry
Every saddle should be symmetrical from every angle with everything in the exact same position on each side. Asymmetry is usually caused by poor design, but an uneven rider or horse can cause a saddle to become asymmetrical over time.

An asymmetrical saddle will apply uneven pressure to the horse and can cause physical pain for both horse and rider. The most critical parts are the rigging plates and the fenders and stirrup leathers. If their position is not in exactly the same on each side, the saddle will be off balance, causing the saddle to twist and shift to one side. Before purchasing a saddle, check a saddle over carefully for symmetry.

Saddles with structural defects will never be "right" regardless of the shape of the horse.

How To Determine Western Saddle Seat Size

What's the right saddle seat size for you? Well, that depends. Not the answer you wanted to hear, right? Let's explain why this seemingly simple question isn't so simple.

First, let's start with some general rules of thumb for proper western saddle fit for the rider:

§  Keep in mind that western saddle seat size refers to rider fit and has nothing to do with how the saddle fits the horse

§  There should be approximately four inches between the front of your body and the fork (or swells).

§  Your rump should rest on the base of the cantle, but should not be pressed against the back of the cantle.

§  Some prefer a tighter fit, some looser. In general, it's better to have a saddle a smidge too big than a smidge too small.

All western saddles come with a published seat size. Seat size simply measures the distance from the base of the horn to the top middle of the cantle. This distance is then expressed as a size in half-inch increments from 12 inches to 17 inches. The following will give you a very general idea of saddle sizes:

§  Youth: 12"-13"

§  Small Adult: 14"

§  Average Adult: 15"

§  Large Adult: 16"

§  Extra Large Adult: 17"

With a published saddle seat size, choosing the right size saddle would seem to be pretty straightforward. In reality seat size is just one factor determining the fit of a western saddle. Sit in the same size of a variety of different styles and brands of saddles and you'll find significant differences in the fit. You might find that a 14 1/2" Circle Y barrel racing saddle fits well but that you need a 15" in a Dale Martin ranch saddle.

Why the differences? There are a number of measurements in addition to seat size that impact the fit of a western saddle. These include:

§  Seat Depth - Some saddles have deep seats designed to keep you in place during extreme activity and others have shallower seats to allow for more movement.

§  Seat Slope - The seat angles from the handhold back towards the cantle and the slope can range from relatively flat to steep.

§  Cantle Slope - The cantle can be high and straight or have a slope that is mild or steep.

§  Cantle Dish - The cantle can be flat or have a recess or dish in the front side that can be an inch or more in depth.

§  Fork Style - There are a wide range of fork styles that can range from wide swells to slick fork saddles with barely any swell.

§  Fork Angle - Forks can be straight or angle away from the rider.

Each of these features can impact the way a saddle fits a rider. Unfortunately, none of these other measurements are standardized or published in a saddle's measurements. So, when shopping for a western saddle, the only way to truly determine fit is to sit in each saddle. Only then will you know if the saddle is a good fit for you.

Chapter One Saddle Fitting found on youtube.com



Chapter Two Saddle Fitting found on youtube.com



Chapter Three Saddle Fitting found on youtube.com



Chapter Four Saddle Fitting found on youtube.com